When people think of Tahiti, they’re likely picturing Moorea instead. With its half collapsed volcano, lush rainforests, and turquoise lagoon, Moorea stands out without a doubt as a unforgettable destination. Despite how close it is from the capital, just a 30-minute scenic ferry ride from Pape’ete, I felt disconnected and relaxed as soon as I arrived.
During the crossing, you can sit on the top deck and enjoy the fresh air while keeping an eye out for marine life along the way.
It's a small island, some visitors won’t even stay for the night. The whole island can be explored in a day and still spare time for a swim in the lagoon. However I would recommend at least an overnight trip to soak it all in.
Moorea is not different to the rest of the country in terms of transportation or the lack thereof. You absolutely need a car to get anywhere around the island. Taxis will be waiting for passengers at the terminal but renting a car either from Tahiti and bringing it across or directly on arrival, both options are better choices if you are planning to explore the island.
“Exploring the island” actually means following the only sealed road of the island. At every corner a new bay, different lagoon or pass. The coastal coast will amaze you, and make sure to take time to stop along the road. We headed north and stopped at every single bay.
The Belvedere detour is a must see. Multiple hikes also starts from there. However I cannot vouch about any of these trails as I was rather looking forward for a swim than a hike.
Plage des Tipaniers was the destination for lunch and a swim. A very prized spot by tourists and locals. The beach is facing a pass that offers a huge range of wild marine life. There is also restaurant and a pension de famille, which is more family oriented and likely more affordable accommodation on a prime spot.
Despite French Polynesia reputation’s of being a bit of luxury holidays as well as a honey moon destination, you can find quite a wide range of prices depending on the islands and time of the year. Locals or French expats often stay at "pension de famille" which are between a lodge and a bed and breakfast, and seems to be a great option for a bigger group. Les Tipaniers probably the most known one of the island.
At plage des tipaniers, the pass is THE spot for boats and other excursions (kayaks, paddles, diving, etc…) that take people to watch rays and sharks. If you are not familiar with a pass, it’s breach in the reef barrier, with allows a stronger current to bring fishes and their predators into the lagoon. The current generates a deep channel into the lagoon. The local shark is the requin à pointe noire or blacktip reef shark. Harmless to humans according to the locals, nonetheless it’s always a surprise to swim with a metre long shark even in the shallows.
Locals would recommend that specific spot for its lagoon and pass. That said, my insider tips would be to stay not to far from plage des tipaniers, but on the west coast to watch the sunset over the ocean and avoid the crowds. Not that busy despite being high season, which allowed us to book very last minute, less than 24 hours before jumping in the ferry.
A couple of other restaurant in the village amongst other guest houses and small hotels. My Coup de coeur for the restaurant is Casa Vincenzo, which does amazing woodfire italian pizza and octopus salad. A great change from the usual thon mi-cuit or tartare which I have to admit, I never got bored of. Bonus point for how close was the restaurant from our sublime Moorea Lodge hotel and easy booking online. Short walk to the restaurant, just watch out for the stray dogs laying on the side walk if you are walking in the dark.
As previously mentioned on the Tahiti post, sunsets are mind-blowing here. And Moorea did not disappoint.
When our host at the told us that you should not miss the sunset and remind it us that show started around 6:30 pm, I was far from imagining how beautiful it would be.
We only stayed one night there in a bungalow, super relaxing experience with the beach, the sound of the waves, swim, lay on the beach and read a good book. I would recommend at least one night to fully unwind.
The next day, we could still enjoy the accommodation facilities and the beach until the evening ferry. Kept driving along the south coast to finish the island circuit. The south bays were the most suited for surfers. The swell breaking on the far away reef barrier and pushing surfers in glassy tubes.
Then back on the ferry to watch some whales and got back to Pape’ete just on time for apéro and another amazing sunset.
I’ve been back more than a month ago, I still think about Moorea often. I know that it is a place I will return to at some point for hopefully longer to enjoy its relaxing vibes.
Thank you for reading Part 2 of my French Polynesia guide. Next and final stop: Huahine.
A bientôt!
